Page 24 - Spanish Insight - October 2019

IT’S SCOTLAND’S FAULT!

By Philip Dean

This Scottish ‘fault’ however, was created the Invergarry Hotel overlooking the beautiful and through more conifer forests, we were
380 million years ago and bisects the R. Garry which runs into Loch Oich. reminded of John Cobb’s tragic attempts
Scottish Highlands, entrenched between Fort here in 1952 to set a new world water speed
William and Inverness, joining the Atlantic record in his speedboat Crusader. Reflected
to the North Sea. On a visit to UK, we took in the water, across the Loch, were clear
the opportunity of a window in the weather views of the historic Urquhart Castle. Built
to ride through this geological divide where around 1250 on the site of an old Iron Age
it’s possible to journey by foot, bike or boat. Fort, it suffered a turbulent history but is now
The Great Glen Way is a 79 mile (127kms) a popular tourist attraction. Approaching the
walking and mountain bike route with an summit for the final descent into Inverness, a
overall height gain of 1400m (4600’), the first
half of which follows the Caledonian Canal.
Opened in 1882, this amazing engineering
achievement designed by William Jessop and
Thomas Telford links the natural waterways of
Lochs Lochy, Oich and Ness. After which, the The route the next day continued along old
strenuous and sometimes narrow, technical Military roads and abandoned rail tracks to
route climbs high through dense conifer our half way point at Fort Augustus. After
forests to reveal stunning views of lochs and the tranquillity of the country side and canal,
mountains. this was a centre of activity; boat trips, cafes
We planned on a 3 day trip, and because at and souvenir shops. This is where the bike
our age we need a bit of comfort, 4 nights route now became significantly harder as it board told the story of Canadian lumberjacks,
B&B. And while we’re on the age and climbed up above the shores of Loch Ness many from Newfoundland, hence the
convenience issue, we paid to have bags to a welcome coffee break at Invermoriston. nickname ‘Newfies’, who volunteered and
transported to each accommodation! First Telford designed the superb stone road bridge worked in these forests to help Britain’s
night Fort William, then Invergarry 29 miles, into the village but unfortunately suffered flood WW2 effort. We joined a sealed road on the
Drumnadrochit 30 miles and finally a further damage in 1951, replaced by a more modern plateau and soon had views, though still
20 miles to Inverness. one in 1954. A tough section then ensued, some distance away, of our final destination.
motivation dwindled a little as we resorted A steep, narrow descent took us down to the
Canal for the last time, over the R. Ness and
to the official finish at the impressive Inverness
Castle.
If you get the opportunity, consider a trip
through this Great Glen with Boots, Bike or
Boat!

The start point in Fort William was by the to pushing the bikes in several places and
old fort, built in 1664/5 under Cromwell’s wished we’d considered taking the alternative
command. The blue posts with the emblem easier, lower back-road route. The rewards for
of a thistle lead us out of town to Neptune’s the effort though, were incredible views across
Staircase, a flight of eight locks which to the numerous Munros (Scottish mountains
sometimes takes over 2 days to pass through above 3000’) and down to the vast Loch
by boat! Further along the wide gravel track Ness. About 10,000yrs old, 23 miles in length
was Moy Bridge, the only original bridge on and an average depth of 600’, this impressive
the canal and even today the bridge keeper stretch of water houses the famous Monster –
rows across to open each half. The enjoyable doesn’t it? Tired legs and 9 hours riding later,
flat ride continued alongside Loch Lochy, still we arrived at Drumnadrochit, our penultimate
in sight of the highest mountain in the UK, B&B.
Ben Nevis 1344m (4406’), then eventually to Before the long hard climb out of the town
24 Spanish Insight October 2019