Page 22 - Spanish Insight - November 2019

GRAZALEMA, Province of Cadiz

A short walk on the ‘wet’ side…..

By Philip Dean

It’s hard to believe that Grazalema, just west staircase takes you up the dam wall to the
of Ronda, is the wettest village in Spain. Embalse del Fresnillo, the water supply for
Similarly, there’s a surprised look on some the village. At the top, take the path to the
peoples’ faces when you mention that it’s left and enjoy almost a complete circuit of the
possible to ski in Southern Spain and yet reservoir until you arrive at a small electricity
be on the beach a short time later on the building. From here, you can return the same
same day. Undoubtedly, Galicia and parts way down the dam wall for a short hour’s walk
of Navarra in the north claim the prize for or take the steep narrow track to the left up
the wettest regions, but as figures show, to a ridge leading to one of the lower, but no
Grazalema in south west Andalusia, tops the less impressive, peaks in the valley. A fifteen
tables for the wettest village. This wonderful minute walk takes you to the top where it’s
white, mountain village sits 800m up in the not unusual to look down on Griffon vultures
Natural Park of Sierra Grazalema. soaring below, taking scouting trips from their
nest sites on the vertical hillsides. Return on Presenting Our New Collection
the same route to the small building, then bear
the local tourist office. But walks are plentiful
outside the park and this moderate 8 km, 4/5 right down the valley on a stony track which
hour wander makes its way below the major after half an hour reaches a tarmac road. Turn
peaks, sometimes using old drovers’ routes right here and after 100m, a conveniently New Stock Regularly Arriving
and yet can be shortened at several places. situated rest area serves as a welcome pit
stop. Bear right off the road and pick up the
From the centre, walk up the steep streets ascending old stony drovers’ route, dissected
to just short of the campsite to where the several times by the new windy tarmac
tarmac finishes. Turn right by the pylon onto alternative to the village. Fifteen minutes of
a narrow but well-defined track where you ascent takes you to the brow of the hill, where
you then descend to join the road for the last
get a panoramic view of the village nestled
amongst greenery and emerging peaks. If half mile or so into Grazalema. Fabulous.
The limestone peaks surrounding the village you’ve never climbed up the face of a dam
are the first barriers for clouds coming in before, here’s your chance. A short metal Accommodation was at Hotel La Mejorana,
from the Atlantic, which then, like a fire plane, a friendly, comfortable hotel which provided
release their load on this expectant vulnerable helpful tips on walks and very close to an
village. The Berbers first established the excellent tapas bar called ‘La Maroma’.
village, introduced sheep in the lush mountains Coincidentally, the name of our mighty
and produced wool for ponchos and blankets mountain, but in this case, also the name
to guard against the wet climate. To this day, given to the heavy rope hanging from the
the renowned ‘mantas de Grazalema’ are bulls’ horns during their traditional annual bull
exported worldwide. running festival. Cicerone Press also produce
an excellent guide to walking ‘The Mountains
However, not dwelling on this unfortunate of Ronda and Grazalema’.
statistic, this stunning green, mountainous
region offers some amazing walks. Most of Well worth a visit, as well as a base to explore
the park is a protected area and closed for the area of the ‘pueblos blancos’. Enjoy.
walking during the summer months and even
outside this period it’s sometimes necessary
to obtain a permit which can be obtained from

22 Spanish Insight November 2019