Page 36 - Spanish Insight - October 2019

By Naomi Diestro

Trips on

a Motorbike

We’re travelling further afield this month.
Taking the main coastal road, we ride our
motorbike down through Málaga and continue
past Estepona to Sotogrande, where we turn restaurant’s Mancunian chef who
inland on the A-405 to Jimena de la Frontera joined him here 20 years ago.
in Cádiz. We came across the most charming We wake up the following morning
hotel we’ve ever seen there once, and feel the to the sounds of rain lashing against
need to go back. It’s not only Casa Henrietta the windows – oh no, we don’t want
we’ve come to see, it’s the person behind it: to be riding the bike in this! But after
Irish/Spanish artist Melissa González Morgan. a satisfying breakfast and a 12-noon
We were so taken by the vibrant, vivacious check-out, we’re relieved to see
waitress on our first visit, we didn’t realise the rainclouds have vanished as we
until we googled the hotel afterwards that march up the steep, cobblestoned
she was actually the artist who’d created and path to Jimena de la Frontera’s castle
designed this exquisite hotel, formerly the ruins. Goodness, what a view! It’s
village doctor’s house. It’s wonderful to be free to explore this eighth-century
back. fortress and adjoining cemetery, and
we spend an enjoyable time here
before grabbing ice creams from the tourist which the waiter assures him is cholesterol
office on the way down to the bike. We study free. We continue exploring the village and
the map and decide to make today a castle- come across a notice on the door of a house
viewing day – Castellar de la Frontera, here covered in polka dotted plant pots: ‘Stevie’s
we come! place. This is an association which only
30 minutes later, having passed numerous admits members’. Hmmm, intriguing, but the
cork trees and fields of cotton on one side and door is firmly shut. When we mention Stevie
majestic, chocolate-brown ‘Retinta’ cows on to Christoph The German who’s minding his
the other, we arrive at this imposing castle. wife’s handmade silk scarf shop on the next
Set high on a hilltop, Castellar de la Frontera corner, he tells us to pop our heads round
not only has quite breathtaking views down the door and introduce ourselves when it re-
to the Guadarranque reservoir, it has a tiny opens at 4 o’clock. And blow me, Christoph
village dating back to the Bronze Age within turns out to be a good friend of Melissa’s –
its walls. Wow! Just WOW!! We walk under fancy that!
the archway entrance, taking in the beautiful
surroundings, and step inside O’Chio, an At 4 pm, we knock at Stevie’s and are
We unpack, freshen up and go down to the attractive leather and jewellery shop where generously allowed in. The place is buzzing
hotel bar, where Melissa greets us warmly and all items are made on the premises. I can’t and the waiter who’d served our lunch
pours us a vino. Like Oscar, she is bilingual, resist a striking bracelet with a glass stone in gives us a big smile. Judging by the musical
and it’s fascinating to hear her chatting away in colourful shades of blue. So unusual. We have instruments in the corner of this cosy venue,
Andaluz one minute, and English with an Irish- a wander around the narrow, cobblestoned it’s clear this is the hub of the village. English
Spanish twang the next. When I admire one of alleyways and arrive at the cosy and oh- Stevie’s too rushed to stop and chat, but I do
her handmade serviette holders, she says “It’s so-Spanish Peña Flamenca bar. Brushing manage to congratulate him on doing his bit
a present for you! Take it!” and presses it into past an Elvis lookalike with a paunch to to keep community spirits high.
my hands. I’m so touched; it’s really pretty. boot, we order a sherry from barman Diego, We return to the bike, taking a swig from the
She’s busy, so we leave her to it in search who later sits on the bench near our cork- village water fountain along the way, and opt
of some fine Spanish fayre, and find it at the topped table to chat to us about ‘duende’, for the fast toll road back.
popular El Ventorillero, a traditional Spanish an almost spiritual exchange of passion and Now home and unpacked, I find myself
restaurant at the bottom of the hill. ‘Can we magic between performers and their beguiled humming Dinah Washington’s What a
see the menu?’ we ask Luís, the proprietor. audience. He laments that some artists who Difference a Day Makes whilst folding
‘Menu? – I’m the menu!’ he exclaims, and perform in his flamenco bar, although very serviettes into my new serviette holder.
pulls up a chair to join us. ‘What do you talented, just don’t have it. ‘Twenty-four little hours …’. Every one of
fancy?’ We end up having a delicious dining We’re hungry, so we leave this gem of a place them a treasured memory.
experience and are thoroughly entertained for the mezzanined Aljibe restaurant opposite.
by the tactile and humorous Luís, who writes I go for the Sopa de Picadillo and Oscar has © Naomi Diestro 2019
our bill on the tablecloth. His missus is the the fried egg, peppers and chips option

36 Spanish Insight October 2019
36 Spanish Insight October 2019