Page 42 - Spanish Insight - April 2020

By Naomi Diestro

Trips on

a Motorbike

I’m reading about traditional Zambra flamenco teashops and outlets
performed by authentic gypsy families inside selling vibrantly-
cave homes in Sacromonte, Granada. Wow coloured souvenirs and
- such intensity, such raw emotion, I really Middle Eastern cakes,
want to go and see that! They don’t start until and up to the Albaicín
after dark though, so this is a great excuse quarter. Continuing
to spend the night in the beautiful city of the climb up a steep, cobbled hill, we pass lightning heel-clacking cause vibrations that
Granada. We look on line for an apartment a square on our left where hippies are chilling rise up right through you, sending chills up
and find one for less than 60 euros right in the in the sunshine and come to the El Huerto de your spine. The experience is deeply moving;
centre. Lucky us. Juan Ranas restaurant where, after a bit of we’re so glad we’ve come.
It’s a sunny Saturday afternoon and here I am, queuing, we are shown to our sofa. My word, We awake to another good-to-be-alive,
sitting behind my husband Oscar as he steers these views of the Alhambra, snowy Sierra blue-sky morning and scan our options
our motorbike from Nerja up the A-7 towards Nevada mountains and city below us are for breakfast. The ecological Mimimi Café
Motril, turning inland on the A-44 motorway truly magnificent. After ten minutes marveling seems like a good bet. This tucked-away
towards Granada city. Oscar’s reflexes come at the view and the splendid pinky-orangey café, with its overhead foliage and little toys
into their own when a young driver, not seeing sunset with no sign of a waiter coming our on grassy window ledges, is a little corner
us, suddenly jerks into our lane, much too way, we make a swift exit, feeling rather glad of cheerfulness. I spoon some Panela sugar
close for comfort. Gulp and double gulp. as the menu prices are slightly on the steep (unrefined, whole cane) from a jam jar into
Thank goodness for effective brakes. side. Instead we walk some more and end my coffee cup and savour my fruit-and-nut
There was me, thinking Granada’s a two- up at the Restaurant Las Tomasas where the breakfast with honey-drizzled yoghurt, while
hour drive away, but actually we arrive here great-tasting food is exquisitely presented Oscar heartily enjoys a Tostada Cristal (crispy
just sixty minutes later and emerge from the and the waist-to-ceiling window makes you Catalán bread filled with aubergine, onion
underground car park opposite Massimo Dutti think The Alhambra is a rather fetching mural. and mozzarella mixed with a spicy Romesco
to meet the delightful Graciela, who shows us Oh gosh, look at the time, it’s well after dark. sauce).
to our fresh and modern apartment, one of We quickly trundle on round to Valparaiso Hill After a late night and a full tum, I nearly nod
several in this building. We drop our bags and in the Sacromonte quarter and arrive at the off on the way back! It’s my turn to test my
take a wander around this charming, romantic Maria La Canastera cave, breathing a sigh of reflexes now – I jerk myself awake and, scared
city, noticing the many street musicians and relief as we pay for the last two seats – phew! I might fall off, I resolve to keep my eyes firmly
young studenty, bohemian-types who give This cave is pretty bijou (to use an estate open ‘til we get safely back.
this place a real buzz. We sit, al fresco, at the agent’s term) and has an arched ceiling filled Best thing about Granada? For me it has
El Laurel café in a pretty plaza, and as the with gleaming copper pans and old photos. to be that outstanding view, it is simply
waiter brings over a plate of mixed fried fish We squeeze in amongst fifty or so others, all breathtaking. The unsightly graffiti is its
and vino, we ask him where he thinks the best perched around a tiny tiled floor, and then least appealing aspect - so many walls and
place is to watch a flamenco show. “Maria the performance begins. I and the rest of buildings are blighted by it - but that aside, it’s
La Canastera” he says without hesitation, the audience are transfixed by the spiritual a wonderfully exciting place to be, and with
and after Googling the online comments, we exchange of passion, sweat and magic as the so much more to explore, we’re sure to come
decide to go there later. singers, guitarist and dancers perform before back soon.
But first, we must see El Mirador de San us. Their intense hand-clapping and fast-as- Naomi Diestro © April 2020
Nicolas, Granada’s top attraction (after The
Alhambra, of course). We meander our
way through these ancient streets and find
ourselves amongst hundreds of costumed
locals marching to band music in what turns
out to be the San Juan de Dios procession.
Funny to catch sight of several pairs of men’s
legs underneath a makeshift ‘trono’, having a
sneaky rehearsal.
We carry on through the lively Calle Calderería
Nueva, a street filled with cosy-looking

42 Spanish Insight April 2020
42 Spanish Insight April 2020